In the dark, all that can be seen are the whites of their eyes.
Gradually they emerge from the blackness, an entire retinue of fanged demons, holding weapons of war, clothed in the skins of wild animals, and crowned with human heads. In the flickering light of the gönkhang in Galingteng, these wrathful protectors appear to dance along the black walls, still inspiring fear and reverence centuries after they were painted.
Galingteng lies just outside Derge Town, in Kardze Prefecture in the historic region of Kham. The small village is bisected by a river that winds it way out...read more